Mucking about in Marrakech

The last time I was in Morocco, I broke my right (dominant) arm two hours after I'd flown into Marrakech. That was just over two years ago. This time, I've had more luck. The only damage (so far) has been to my wallet. I came to see friends from Australia who are here for the Biennale – Jules and Yvonne, Rita and Anne – but have also caught up briefly with my cousin Kylie (last seen in Amsterdam in early 2015), photographer friend Alia (New York last summer), online runner contact Ahmed (first meeting), and Abdou, who works with Rita and got me to Casablanca, and then on to my flight to Malaysia, after my arm operation in January 2014.

It's a spectacular time of year to see Marrakech: perfect temperatures and deep-blue, cloudless skies. I'm not able to take Rita's tour with the others into the mountains. Work eased up for just enough time to enable me to be a tourist for a week in Marrakech during the Biennale art fair, but not a traveller for another fortnight in Morocco. Miki and I are heading off on a jaunt in a couple of weeks and I need to finish up some jobs before we go.

After seeing a physiotherapist in Budapest I've decided to keep running so long as my back isn't hurting. I missed the morning chats and laughs with Rio too much. I've had random runs with Barb and Maria, and new training friend Kate, but I'll hope to get back into a routine soon. Just to keep me on task I've entered some events in the US later in the year.

Last month I decided on the spur of the moment to take the train to Pecs, in Hungary, for a couple of nights. I loved it, and ended up staying for four days. I also spent a few days in Vienna, where I got my bearings for the first time. I've also topped and tailed this visit to Marrakech with overnight stays there, in the Museum Quarter.

A new friend in Budapest is Andras. We met at a screening of the Woody Allen film Manhattan, and film has become our thing. He works in the business as an extra. It's early days in the new year, but things are looking good so far.

A little less rootless

Last year seemed like a very long one. I’ve been on the move a bit less than in recent years, but the start of 2015 feels like 24 months ago, not 12.         

A very quick recap: After seeing in the new year in Budapest, I made quick visits with cousin Kylie (visiting from Oz) to Berlin (where I had dinner with artist friend Norbert and Marisa from Malta) and to Amsterdam (saw Susan from New York, and NZ cousin Sarah and Simon) before I flew back to Asia. In Kuching I spent time with Emily, Min and Sam, Ivy and Swee, and other friends made in recent years, and had my annual health checkup. There was nothing wrong with me that wasn’t already wrong with me. I learned while I was there (staying at the Batik Boutique Hotel, as usual) that my application for a Hungarian residency permit had been approved for five years. 

This has changed everything!         

I spent February, including Chinese New Year, in Hong Kong, which was busy and fun and felt like home again. It offered up some new people (among them Joanne, Andy, and Sylvia). Spent time with Polly, Linda (who was on a visit from the UK), Carol, and Cathy and David. Hiked and ran with Cathy and Jocelyn. I gave a talk at Women in Publishing, which I helped start 25 years ago. A quick visit to Zhuhai to spend a couple of days with old Oz bestie, Chris M, and Xiao, who returned the visit to Hong Kong.         

Back to Budapest for three months, March through to late May, to start taking up my residency. Ran the Vivicitta Budapest Half Marathon. Spent a lot of time seeing cultural events with Miki, Julie and David. Through the Budapest Zombie Runners group I met two special guys, Riyadh and Tiago. I took holidays in Slovenia (where I met the Two Joans in Ljubljana) and with JB in Croatia (Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik, where I ran a race along the old town walls, plus a hard, hot and hilly half marathon, and met Aussie runners Louise and Sandra). Visitors to Budapest were my near-oldest friends Barb and Bill, and Di. Other new Budapest faces were runners Andrea and Robert, Agi, and Nozzies Karin and Virginia.         

I spent June and July in New York, back in the apartment beside Central Park where my books are on the shelves and my runner friends are at Engineers’ Gate most mornings at 5.30. I wrote nearly 300 pages of a first draft of my book, ran races and saw lots of films. I had a week-long break in Toronto (to see former Hong Kongers Sarah and Will, and Frances) and Montreal (where I caught up with visiting Dead Runners Laura and Rob). Chiu Yin organised a writing workshop with the writer Amy Hempel at Tuxedo Park, where I met Sheila and Joni. Dominic was in town from Tokyo.         

Back to Budapest for August and September. Through running I met Kristy, Barb and Maria. Many fun morning runs with Riyadh. Saw lots of Hungarian and other foreign films at local arthouse cinemas. Miki became a close friend. He and I visited Istanbul for four days. I called in to see Kadir, manager at the AgoraLife hotel in Sultanahmet, where I stayed for a month in 2011. Chris H came for a visit from France. Visitors from Oz: Susy, and Kevin and Simone. Ran my third Wizz Budapest Half Marathon. I started working on my book again from scratch with Judit, a writing coach in Budapest.         

To New York to do final training for an October marathon (my fifth) in Pennsylvania (Steamtown) with Maria. My time wasn’t my best, but it was good enough to qualify me for Boston in 2017. New pal Sue also qualified in her first marathon. I completed the other races I need to do to get entry to 2016 New York City marathon. My 63rd birthday. I continued to work with Judit on my book. Another writing workshop at Tuxedo Park with writer Laura Shayne Cunningham, Chiu Yin, Sheila and Joni. Spent time with Liliane from Lausanne (we met in 2011), Vince from Hong Kong, Fran (we met in Kuching in 2014) and caught up with visitors from Oz: Lynne and Greg, Robert and Merelin, and Bridget.         

In early November, I returned to Budapest. Ran the Way of Knowledge Half Marathon (my 38th). Worsening back pain took me to an orthopaedic specialist who took spinal X-rays and diagnosed scoliosis on top of the osteoporosis I already knew about. No more running… I’m still getting my head around what that means. In December I took a weekend break in Zagreb, during which I left my bag containing passport, cards and cash in a taxi. There was a happy ending after a very charming Croatian geologist came to my rescue.        

I’m finishing up the year with a week on the border of southern Hungary and Serbia, checking out secession-style (art nouveau) architecture while I plough through a very heavy workload.

New York: My work here is (nearly) done

A very busy six weeks back in New York. I had three main goals: to run my fifth marathon; to earn the final race credits I need for a guaranteed place in next year's New York City Marathon; and to continue making progress with my memoir.

Two weeks ago, Maria and I spent the weekend in Pennsylvania where we both finished the Steamtown Marathon. Maria had a personal best time (her third marathon), and I had a good-enough time (4:21:37) to qualify for the Boston marathon in 2017.

In last weekend's 5-mile race in Central Park I placed third in my age group (out of 37) in a reasonable time of 46:23. I hadn't run since the marathon two weeks ago, as I've been sick with a head and chest cold. I have one more race (5K) this weekend. I've done well in it the two other times I've run it.

I've continued to work by Skype with my amazing writing coach (in Budapest). Judit Kiss is reviewing and commenting on chapters of my memoir as I write them. It's coming along.

As always, I feel very at home in New York and love my life in my 'hood, the morning training with the 5:30 a.m. group, seeing films, catching up with local friends, and seeing non-NYC friends: Vince from Hong Kong, Fran (whom I met in Kuching), Liliane from Lausanne, and Bridget from Oz. This week there are other visitors in town, and Sunday is the NYC marathon. I'll be out cheering friends who are running it. Then on Monday I return to Budapest for an extended stay, during which time I want to finish my book.

At home in Budapest

BUDAPEST, August 3–26: Hot, hot, hot! Work. Writing. Gyros with Miki at Ararat • Coaching from Judit • Runs with Barb, Kristy and Maria • Runs with Rio • "Son of Saul" • Moved from Jules' and David's apartment to Oliver's (opposite synagogue) • Susy and the big storm • Susy lunch • Jules and David returned • Kevin and Simone at Mazel Tov. Chris.

ISTANBUL, August 27–31: Holiday with Miki • Hagia Sofia • Blue Mosque • Sufi dancing • Prince's Islands • menemen with simit bread • Pudding shop • Kadir at AgoraLife Sultanahmet. Chris.

Budapest bound

I've had two fabulous months in New York, training with the morning crew (including Susan visiting from Amsterdam), running races (including a Team Championship 5-mile race with the Hudson Dusters this morning) and writing the first draft of my book. I had a goal of returning to Budapest with 100 pages, but I have 280. A serious think about structure will be required once I'm done with the first draft, then the hard work of cutting and moving to produce a second draft. I had some welcome advice from writer Amy Hempel at the first get-together of a writers' group based in Tuxedo Park, organised by my friend CY.

Each time I come to New York I make a side trip to a new city. This summer I went to Toronto (to see Sarah and Will, and Frances) and then on to Montreal (where I had brunch with visiting Dead Runners Laura and Rob, last seen in 2009 in St. Louis, Missouri). Montreal didn't do much for me, but I enjoyed my second visit to Toronto.

As always in New York, I've seen some exhibitions and lots of films. I always feel very at home here, but I'm excited about returning to Budapest tomorrow.

Summer in New York City

I've been very, very busy writing my book... Finally! I have nearly 200 pages done. I had hoped to be able to use this summer to complete a first draft, and it looks doable. I feel very happy about the way it's going.

In addition to writing, I've been running with the 5.30 am group and have run four races (one on each weekend I've been back). Last week's 10K in Queens was good for a third place in my age group, but yesterday's 5-mile race to celebrate Pride Week (I was in seventh place) was my fastest-paced run in two years. I now need to start getting some long runs in the bag.

I've been seeing a lot of films and exhibitions and generally really enjoying being back in New York, and in my neighbourhood.

Manhattan Transfer

Tomorrow I'm returning to New York for two months. I'm looking forward to spending time there and getting back into running with the 5.30 a.m. group (including starting marathon training with Maria), racing in New York Road Runner races, and in other ways channelling my inner New Yorker.

Budapest is turning into a great love. I've had friends visiting, who have also been seduced by the city's charms and very affordable quality of life. I'm expecting an influx of visitors over the next few years...

Last month I took a mini-break in Ljubljana that included a 'Slovenia in a day' whirlwind excursion to Lake Bled and an amazing cave system. Earlier this month, I had eight days away in Croatia, in Zagreb (Museum of Broken Relationships), Split and Dubrovnik for a two-mile race along the top of the city walls and a hilly and hot half marathon. I was with a friend from Oz, and we travelled around by train, bus and ferry. It's an easy destination in a part of the world I'd like to explore some more.

Miki has become a very dear friend. Since Julie and David returned to the US for an extended visit,  we've spent a lot of time together visiting the thermal baths, hanging out and, lately, running together! We're planning some mini-breaks for later in the year.

This month marked the fifth anniversary of my departure from Australia on my open-ended journey.